It’s one of those treatments that sounds really quite terrifying but in actual fact it’s anything but. Granted, the term ‘skin’ and ‘needling’ as a descriptive hardly sounds like an enjoyable time, and with A-List celebrities posting on Instagram their blotchy faces immediately post-treatment, it is no wonder there is a great deal of misinformation (and a great deal of fear-mongering) out there about this very simple, and very effective, anti-ageing technique.
You’ll likely have heard it called a number of different things; derma rolling, skin needling or Dermapen. All are essentially the same treatment, however they each have key differences; derma rolling (as the name suggests) uses a hand-held device that requires a ‘roll-on’ method to administer, while skin needling and Dermapen uses a spring-loaded wand in a gliding motion.
With regular usage, skin needling promises clearer, more youthful looking skin, and has even been known to convert die-hard Botox users for its ability to dramatically reduce fine lines and wrinkles.
The big question is, does it work?
We visited one of Perth's leading skin destinations, , to try out the Dermapen treatment for ourselves.
What Is Skin Needling?
Also known as electric collagen induction therapy, skin needling works by rolling fine needles over the skin to create micro-injuries to the dermis and epidermis of your skin. These injuries stimulate your body to create new collagen, and we all know collagen equals firm, youthful skin.
The needles are so fine that the epidermis heals almost instantly so there’s no sign of damage to the skin from the outside, but the dermis will be hard at work ‘repairing’ your skin.
What Does Skin Needling Treat?
Skin needling is used to treat everything from skin elasticity, wrinkles and pigmentation to scarring, under-eye circles and sun damage. Basically, it’s your one-stop shop to getting the skin of a 12-year-old.
It is only mildly uncomfortable and there’s very little downtime. Blanc recommends staying in the night after your treatment as you might be a bit red and you shouldn’t wear makeup for at least 24 hours after your treatment. The feeling and look immediately after is a bit like sunburn and while everyone is different, that should have well and truly subsided within 24-48 hours.
What You Need To Know About Skin Needling
First things first, skin needling is far less painful than you might have imagined thanks to the numbing cream applied to your face beforehand.
You also need to know that while the results are nothing short of incredible, they aren’t immediate and you’ll get the best outcome if you do at least three sessions—with Blanc telling us that your best results often come four weeks after your third session after the skin has fully healed and regenerated. So if you’re hoping to get your skin into shape for a big event (hello, wedding season), you’ll want to get a wriggle on.
As already mentioned, you might be a bit red for a day or two after your treatment and your skin might feel a little rough for a few days after (though it will look fine). It’s not until about six or seven days after that you’ll really notice the glow up.
You might also get some small pimples or flaking depending on the condition of your skin beforehand. If you do get pimples, definitely don't squeeze them as it's more likely to result in scarring.
How Will The Appointment Go Down?
Once you're taken through to the appointment room, they'll sit you down for a chat about the treatment and give your skin a good clean before applying the numbing cream which will sit for about half an hour.
They’ll also use this time to have a chat with you about your main skin concerns so they can work more deeply on those areas.
After that initial numbing time, they'll fully cleanse the skin again before the actual skin needling starts. It feels not too dissimilar from microdermabrasion and only takes about 20 minutes to work over your entire face.
You'll find some areas might be a little more sensitive than others, but rest assured if it gets too much you can always ask them to stop and take it easier.
Don't worry, you’ll be out of there before you know it, and my advice is to use your red face as an excuse to have a night in binging that Netflix series you’ve been meaning to watch for three weeks.
Skin Needling Aftercare
Aftercare is fairly straight forward, and really it's all about keeping most things away from your skin until it's properly healed.
First things first, try not to touch your face. You'll want to treat it like an open wound for at least 24 hours, so they even suggest skipping your skincare routine for the first 24 hours outside of applying the aftercare balm they provide you with.
You can't use any active products like retinol or AHAs for five days after and you'll want to use a sunscreen that's at least 50+ SPF (but you're already doing that, right?).
They also recommend avoiding anything that might make you sweat for the next three to four days, so if you need an excuse to skip the gym or get out of social netball you're in luck.
Finally, you shouldn't wear any makeup for at least 48 hours after your treatment if you can help it. You'll get the best results if you keep your skin nice and clean, so just focus on the end game and step away from the makeup if you can. If you absolutely have to, you should only wear mineral makeup and be sure to use sterilised brushes and beauty tools to apply any makeup.
The Results Of Skin Needling
For the next few days, your skin will feel a bit rough and you might wonder why on earth you’ve invested in this. You might also look a bit flushed for the first 24-48 hours—my super pale, sensitive skin was basically tomato red for two days. But push through the initial week and you’ll be rewarded.
A week after my first appointment, my skin was noticeably clearer and smoother, with less congestion and less visible scars from those pimples I just had to pop throughout my 20s. Blanc had warned me that I probably wouldn't notice crazy results after the first session, so I was honestly pretty surprised by just how much of a difference it made and was already spruiking skin needling's benefits to anyone who would listen.
A week after my second appointment I was seeing similar results and my skin kept getting better as more time passed.
After my third appointment, I was feeling more confident than ever in my skin. Four weeks afterwards, my skin just seemed more plump, radiant and youthful all round. I also noticed I was reaching for the concealer and foundation far less and opting for a tinted moisturizer to let my clear skin shine through, which says a lot.
Bottom line, if you're searching for a skin treatment that actually packs a punch with minimal downtime, my money is on skin needling and I cannot recommend enough.
Need to keep that skin protected? These are the best sunscreens on the market right now.
Image credit: Blanc